Vetements is NOT Dead, According to Demna Gvasalia

Its been a few weeks since Highsnobiety published the highly controversial article titled “2 Years After They Broke the Internet, It Looks Like Nobody is Buying Vetements.” It caused quite the ruckus to the point where it incited a response directly from Demna himself.

For those who are just tuning in, the journalist from Highsnobiety reported claims that “the brand is on its way out, with sales slumping and customers uninterested.” Their sources (all of whom wished to remain anonymous) were a buyer, a former Vetements employee and a sales associate from a luxury department store. They had some very harsh words to say about the brand. Everything from “Vetements is completely dead” to “sales have dropped dramatically to the point where you are now seeing Vetements on sale on various outlets at 60-70% off.”

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Kanye West seen here in Vetements in early 2015.

Guram and Demna call bullshit.

In a statement sent to WWD, Guram Gvasalia, Vetements CEO and Demna’s brother, fought back and declared the independent company is outperforming market expectations and showing over 50 percent growth in comparison to the previous year.

“It is sad to see the state of journalism today. In the era of click-baits, using the name of

our company in the article is a click-bait itself, and even more so when it’s mentioned in a negative headline,” he wrote. “To the disappointment of all the haters, we would like to declare that Vetements is in the strongest creative and financial state it has ever been.”

Since the statement has been released via Instagram, the Vetements page continues to blast looks from their Fall 2018 collection and product photos from their stockists as per usual.

So what do you think? Is Vetements out for you? Will it outlive the hype?

 

Here are some iconic looks from the brand:

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Glossier to Open Permanent Store in L.A.

West-coast, you’ll never have to wonder what shade you are in Stretch Concealer because Glossier has chosen Los Angeles to home to its second permanent store – with the first flagship store in New York. WWD reports that the 1,500-square-foot brick-and-mortar space will open in May.

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“Los Angeles is a huge market for us, and San Francisco — in a lot of California we have a lot of demand,” founder and CEO Emily Weiss told WWD, referencing the brand’s month-long pop-up store in San Francisco.

Glossier has also been testing the waters in both London and Toronto where the company has previously hosted week-long pop-ups which reportedly have all been successful drawing long line-ups and high conversions. glossier-pop-up-9-.jpg

Virgil Abloh in a New Light

His appointment as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear put the fashion world in turmoil but M Magazine, the magazine section of French newspaper Le Monde, decided it was ever so appropriate to make him their next cover star.

This editorial for M Magazine shows Abloh in clothing not too far from his usuals – OFF-WHITE x Champion collaboration, Nike Jordans, Carhartt pants etc. The images were photographed by Colin Dodgson and styled by M Magazine fashion director and the co-founder of Self-Service magazine, Suzanne Koller.

 

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How Phoebe Philo Changed the Way Women Dressed

PARIS – The news broke late December 2017 that Phoebe Philo, creative director for 10 years at Céline, will be leaving the house. The fall 2018 collection, to be presented in March, will be the last collection crafted by the designer.

Céline doesn’t have a history of an iconic designer or much of an archive. It can be difficult for designers to step into someone else’s shoes. But for me, Céline was a clean slate.

The Modern Working Women

While swooning over the fashion world with her consistent collections, it was Phoebe’s own uniform that would incite inspiration. In what was seemingly counterintuitive in hindsight, a simple sweater-trouser combo worn with sneakers would be the next It uniform.

Furthermore, her affinity for minimalism was very apparent – she designed simple and uncomplicated pieces for Céline. It evoked power rather than femininity, independence as opposed to glamour. She made clothes that the modern working women actually wanted and could wear. Her role as a devoted mother and wife, a fact that she has expressed more than once, may have something to do with this.

 

 

 

 

I had my daughter, and with that came a deep sense of responsibility; my time for work had become precious, and it had to have more meaning.

Within only a few years, she had tripled profits at Céline and made “minimalism” the fashion statement of the decade. Oversized coats, lambskin knee boots and wide-leg trousers were on everyone’s wishlist.

Wearable Art

Aside from the Ready-to-Wear, Céline’s accessories and leather goods probably paid most of the rent. Phoebe Philo developed an accessories line that immediately established itself as the most inspiring of the time. The expert craftsmanship and impeccable quality mixed with contemporary designs meant that every handbag was a instant hit, even warranting a slew of copycats. We all know of them: Trio, Phantom, Trapeze, Luggage. Of course, they came in massive sizes with large openings because what working woman nowadays only carries her wallet and a lipstick?

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Yeezy Season 6 Modeled by None Other than Kim Kardashian (Courtesy of the Paparazzi)

Well… Not Really. The new Yeezy Season 6 lookbook features Kanye West’s wife, Kim Kardashian, in various settings going about her everyday life. With captions reading “Kit Kat run #Yeezy”, and “Phone calls #Yeezy” and the ever so relatable “Delorian ride #Yeezy”. The photos imitate those of real paparazzi photos: high contrast, flash photography capturing Kardashian as she goes about her day “grabbing coffee” or “running errands”. Kardashian revealed the photos on her Twitter account sporting a whopping 50+ outfits.

As simple and as low-budget as it may appear, it may be one of the most thoughtful and original concepts of the year. *mic drop*

It may be counter-intuitive playing off this concept considering that West and Kardashian are bait to Hollywood’s hungriest paparazzi. Both West and Kardashian have a famously tumultuous relationship with the paparazzi – how could we forget that time Kanye smashed a photographer’s camera and was ordered to complete 250 hours of community service and 30 days of anger management? Or even more recently, Kim’s claim that unflattering paparazzi photo’s has given her body dysmorphia?

The lookbook can be seen as an act of reclaiming images of themselves (especially Kim) from photos that were once taken without consent. A sort of “fuck you” to the buying-and-selling industry. Even more so, the concept stems from Kanye’s utopian vision that everyone, even the average person, can wear Yeezy. For the 99% of  women out there who want to feel comfortable yet sexy, Yeezy season 6 is for you. Just take after Kim Kardashian.

The entire lookbook can be seen and shopped on https://yeezysupply.com/ now.

@diet_prada is the Instagram Exposing Fashion Knock Offs

Diet Prada is giving fashion Instagrammers the drama that it needs. Diet Prada is an Instagram account that has recently gained notoriety for calling out designers who are essentially “knocking each other off.”, as per their bio. At first glance, the posts have a humorous satirical quality but then a deep dive into their paragraph-long captions gives the side by side comparisons more context. screen-shot-2017-10-03-at-5-38-20-pm

In all seriousness, the clothing industry is very susceptible to counterfeiting, copyright and intellectual property offences which can point to why Diet Prada spurs an important conversation to be had.

This may point to a flaw in the system; a system that cannot be sustainable. The rate at which designers are pressured to create season after season of so-called “innovative” and “unique” collections can contribute to this “copycatting” culture. How can we expect absolutely zero copying, if not, similarities? Yes, the presence of blatantly stealing a concept or design is harmful, period. But fashion businesses must regain their integrity and treat fashion like the art it once was.

Why These $600 Ugly Sneakers Have Been Popular for a Decade

The Cut recently published an article which ran down the history and cultural importance of  the Golden Goose Superstar sneaker.

“It’s somewhat outdated to look too put-together. Millennials especially want to wear things that put off an easygoing air.”

In a insightful conversation with Marina Larroude, the fashion director at Barneys New York, she explained that “in 2007, there wasn’t a fashion sneaker like Golden Goose,” and that “[People] don’t want to look too precious any more, and don’t want to look like they’re trying too hard,” concluded Larroude. “It’s somewhat outdated to look too put-together. Millennials especially want to wear things that put off an easygoing air.”

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In the past where the luxury footwear sector produced very “precious” shoes, Golden Goose filled an opportunity in the market: by providing a high-end fashion sneaker that you could wear everyday but still look chic and everyone would know it. Golden Goose founders Alessandro Gallo and Francesca Rinaldo describe

whos-dumbass-is-going-to-pay-585-for-duck-tape-12035686the Superstar sneakers as being an “emotional product that is authentic and never artificial.” They look as though they’ve

already lived a good life, full of adventure, and encourage you to do more of the same. You can wear them anywhere, in any social situation.”

The deliberately duct-taped and scuffed sneakers fell victim to a meme tirade, calling out the shoe for being a product of fashion elitism:

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However, Golden Goose’s power lies in its disguise or mocking of luxury which still holds true today especially in footwear. Think Balenciaga Triple S, Raf Simons and Adidas Ozweego’s.  Even entire collections that have gone on to produce and style their looks based off of alleged fashion faux pas like Vetements and Gucci. Symbols of style and wealth have completely shifted; it seems the “normcore” trend is here to stay.

“TEN ICONS RECONSTRUCTED” A Nike and Off White Collab

off-white-nike-the-ten-raffle-release-dates.jpg Keep your wallets handy and your calendars near. The full collection of the Nike and Off White “Ten” sneaker collaboration will be launching on November 9 2017 at NikeLab stores and select retailers worldwide.

The collection includes 10 silhouettes split into two themes “REVEALING” and “GHOSTING.” “REVEALING” is hand-cut, open-sourced and reconstructed methods on the Air Jordan 1, Nike Air Max 90, Nike Air Presto, Nike Air VaporMax and Nike Blazer Mid. “GHOSTING” is unique translucent paneling and an all off-white colourway on the Converse Chuck Taylor, Nike Zoom Fly SP, Nike Air Force 1 Low, Nike React Hyperdunk 2017 and Nike Air Max 97.  Below are the official global retailers announced by Nike. Check in with your local retailers as they have their own release procedures and if more retailers are announced.

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Fashion FINALLY Cuts Ties with Terry Richardson

In an exclusive story by the Telegram, famed fashion photographer Terry Richardson has been banished from working under all Condé Nast publications such as Vogue, GQ, Glamour and all of their international publications.

According to Condé’s COO James Woolhouse, any unpublished work already commissioned from Richardson should be “killed or substituted with other material.” Ouch. Shortly thereafter, Valentino and Bulgari announced they, too, would cut ties with Richardson. More names are likely to follow.

With the recent public outing of the disgraced Harvey Weinstein, the film and fashion industries are just now coming to terms that keeping white male, privileged sexual predators in power is no longer relevant. What took them so long?

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Richardson with a then-young Selena Gomez. 2013

Fashion Month 2018 Highlights

Spring 2018 was quite the month. With the new appointments at Calvin Klein and Chloe and 3 major New York fashion houses showing in Paris, there was much to anticipate. Let’s recap some of the juicy highlights:

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“American horror, American dreams,” Raf Simons explained. Staying with the slightly eerie Americana tropes from last season, the Belgian designer says he was inspired by TV and films. Indeed, his models looked like they came straight out of a film: the hero, the damsel, the culprit and the villain. The cowboy boots, constructed collared shirts and denim offered hints of nostalgia while keeping it all so “Raf” with Andy Warhol prints plastered onto the dresses.

 

That Louis Vuitton Sneaker

It seems as though everyone had their heads wrapped around Ghesquiere’s idea of a sensible shoe: a sneaker. The entire fashion community on Instagram felt compelled to post it onto their feeds – could this be next season’s It shoe?

Off White x Princess Diana

Inspiration is everywhere, even in the unlikeliest of places. It seems that way of Virgil Abloh and his team at Off  White where his team spent hours studying the on and off-duty looks of… the late Princess Diana. Sunglasses hung around the model’s necks with a sunglass strap, high white socks, denim on denim and of course, gowns. This collection was an ode to the late and great Diana while still maintaining the uber coolness that is Off White

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Gucci Down to the Socks

If you weren’t at the Gucci show during Milan fashion week, you might as well say you didn’t go to Milan fashion week at all. It’s remarkable at what Alessandro Michele did to Gucci. At a time in fashion where there was boring minimalism and safe styling, he hit everyone hit everyone over their heads with his loud maximalism. With a whopping 109 looks, his “ugly-chic” collection will guarantee another profitable quarter.

Images courtesy of Vogue and Conde Nast.